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Petit Japon: Family Cuisine and Edomae Sushi in Carpentras

by Ella
1

In the small city of Carpentras, with a population of just 30,000, one might not expect to find a Japanese restaurant. However, Grace Morioka-Martorana and Taizo Morioka opened Petit Japon in April 2023 at 6 Rue de l’Observance. This restaurant stands out with its unique menu that blends traditional family dishes and edomae sushi. Here’s a closer look at their journey, menu, and what led them to settle in southern France.

A Cozy Dining Experience

Petit Japon offers a cozy atmosphere, with seating for only about fifteen guests. It resembles those small, informal eateries one might stumble upon while exploring Japan. The open kitchen fills the air with enticing aromas that attract customers. The menu, inspired by traditional teishokuya (family-style restaurants), features a limited selection of dishes (ranging from six to eight, depending on the season). Diners can enjoy generous and affordable portions of karaage (fried chicken), chicken katsu, Japanese curry, chashu pork, miso-glazed eggplant, and gyoza. As summer heat envelops Vaucluse, the menu shifts to feature edomae sushi, a specialty of Taizo.

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Their Unexpected Journey

Journal du Japon asked Grace and Taizo about their backgrounds and how they founded Petit Japon.

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Taizo Morioka (TM): I am originally from Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture. I studied physiotherapy and worked in Japan for eight years and in Ecuador for two years.

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Grace Morioka-Martorana (GMM): I studied literature before becoming a French teacher abroad in Ecuador, where I met Taizo. We initially planned to settle there, but visa issues prevented that. Taizo returned to Japan, and I followed him.

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TM: In Ecuador, the Japanese Foreign Ministry regularly organizes cultural events called nihon matsuri. I participated in these events because I love cooking. I had the chance to prepare various Japanese dishes, such as yakisoba (fried noodles) and karaage. Despite Ecuador being far from Japan, Japanese culture is quite popular there. Even in rural areas, many people traveled to try our food. Back then, I lacked experience in cooking large quantities, which sometimes made things challenging. This made me realize my desire to improve my cooking skills and seize the opportunity to share Japanese cuisine, which was underrepresented in Ecuador.

Return to Japan

TM: After completing my mission in Ecuador, I enrolled in a cooking school. After six months of intensive training, I graduated at the top of my class. This allowed me to help establish an edomae sushi restaurant as an assistant manager. A Michelin-starred chef advised us until the restaurant opened and continued to help afterward. I also worked in Italian and French restaurants for about a year before finally opening my sushi restaurant.

The Essence of Edomae Sushi

TM: Edomae sushi originated in Tokyo around 350 years ago during the Edo period. At that time, refrigeration did not exist, so alternative methods were needed to preserve fish without spoiling. For these sushi, the fish is never used raw. It is marinated in soy sauce and mirin or lightly cooked to enhance preservation and flavor.

Relocation to France

TM: In Tokyo, I met an entrepreneur who owned a yakitori factory in England and wanted to expand into France. We decided to collaborate on a restaurant in Valence in 2020. Due to COVID-19, we initially offered only takeout, serving karaage, gyudon (beef rice bowl), and sushi. Our menu featured traditional edomae dishes, like marinated tuna. We received positive feedback, but sadly, my partner passed away from cancer shortly after we opened, leading to the restaurant’s closure. I then worked in two different Japanese restaurants before discovering a small space in Carpentras. Having always loved the Luberon region, we decided to settle here.

A Unique Menu

GMM: We wanted to introduce French customers to more traditional family dishes. While there are many sushi restaurants in France, mostly chains offering products different from those in Japan, traditional Japanese family cuisine is rarely represented. We aimed to offer a menu closer to authentic Japanese food.

TM: From a business perspective, we needed to cater to French tastes while considering the cost of ingredients. As a small restaurant with a limited budget initially, we couldn’t risk offering expensive dishes that required costly ingredients and equipment. Instead, we focused on more affordable family-style dishes that are less known to the French. We wanted the restaurant to have a relaxed atmosphere with reasonable prices and generous portions, reminiscent of a teishokuya.

Introducing Sushi for the Summer

GMM: After being open for over a year, our restaurant was doing well. We could invest in equipment and wanted to refresh our menu. Since Taizo studied edomae sushi, we thought it was the perfect opportunity to introduce it to our customers.

TM: Summers in Carpentras are extremely hot, and our restaurant is quite narrow. Offering hot dishes during this time can be challenging, prompting me to return to edomae sushi. I wanted to share it with as many people as possible. We had the budget to invest, so we decided to go for it. We bought the necessary equipment and adapted the principles, knowing we couldn’t offer “authentic” edomae sushi in France. The feedback has been very positive, and I believe we will do it again next summer.

Local Collaborations

GMM: The local cinema, Le Rivoli, quickly approached us to collaborate during the Hanabi film festival in June 2023. Director Koji Fukada presented one of his films, and we offered a katsu sando menu, among other dishes. The cinema regularly hosts events related to Japan, and we continued working with them, providing dishes for two more premieres.

TM: The highlight for me was offering a menu during the premiere of the film The Boy and the Heron. I never expected our restaurant’s name to be associated with a Ghibli film release!

GMM: We also participate in the annual Momiji Koyo festival, organized by the Vents d’Asie association. In the past, we offered tastings of traditional edomae sushi and sold strawberry daifuku and dorayaki. This year, we will serve bentos during the screening of the film A Family Affair.

A Culinary Gem in Carpentras

In just a short time, Petit Japon has gained popularity among food lovers in Carpentras. The restaurant offers excellent, original, and diverse dishes. It is a rare gem in a small town, making it a must-visit for those seeking authentic Japanese cuisine.

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