Exploring the Impact of Migrants on Greece’s Culinary Landscape
Since the early 20th century, international migration has faced legal restrictions, but millions of people have fled their homelands, seeking safety and new opportunities in different countries. These waves of forced migration, as defined by the United Nations’ International Organization for Migration, raise important questions: What happens when refugees settle in new communities? How do they adjust to unfamiliar cultures and languages? And how are these communities transformed by the arrival of migrants?
This summer, eleven undergraduate students from Clark University set out to answer these questions in Thessaloniki, Greece. Their research, part of a newly developed study abroad program titled People-on-the-Move Research Studio: Food, Migration, and Belonging in Thessaloniki, examined the intersection of migration, culture, and food. Funded in part by the Leir Program, the course allowed students to delve into Greece’s rich history of migration and how it has shaped local cuisine.
Food as a Lens for Understanding Migration
The course was co-taught by Professor Anita Fábos and research scholar Leora Kahn, both from the Department of Sustainability and Social Justice. Their Studio Course is part of a larger initiative known as Global Learning Collaboratives, which provides students with hands-on learning experiences through partnerships with local communities worldwide. Fábos and Kahn also lead Clark’s Integration and Belonging Hub, which focuses on fostering migrant- and refugee-inclusive communities both locally and globally.
Students from various academic backgrounds participated in the course, which was held in Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city and a renowned hub for food lovers. In fact, UNESCO designated Thessaloniki a “City of Gastronomy” in 2021, recognizing its rich culinary traditions that include fresh, local ingredients such as feta, yogurt, and olive oil.
A Culinary Journey Through Migration Stories
The students had the unique opportunity to explore Thessaloniki’s diverse culinary scene, guided by Panagiotis “Panos” Karafoulidis, a chef and founder of Gastro Routes, which offers cultural food tours. Karafoulidis, who comes from a family of Anatolian Christian refugees, shared his deep knowledge of the city’s migrant history through food. Over four weeks, the students visited local restaurants, bakeries, food markets, and even the village home of Karafoulidis’ family.
“He had an entire program set up for us, including observing women preparing for a wedding, cooking fresh produce from his garden, and even cooking over a fire,” Professor Fábos recalled. “As someone from a refugee background himself, he knew the unique food culture of Thessaloniki intimately and was excellent at teaching young people.”
Thessaloniki: A Historical Refuge for Migrants
Located at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, Thessaloniki has long been a city of refuge for migrants. Throughout history, it has attracted people from various regions, including those displaced by war and political turmoil. However, in recent decades, Greece has faced its own migrant crisis. In 2015 alone, nearly 1 million people from Africa, the Middle East, and Asia arrived on flimsy rafts and boats, landing on Greek islands in search of safety.
While Greece has a strong tradition of welcoming newcomers, Professor Fábos pointed out that “today there isn’t a lot of refugee settlement,” as many migrants view Greece as a passage to other European Union countries.
The course instead focused on earlier waves of migrants, going as far back as the 15th century, when Jews were expelled from Spain during the Inquisition. Many of these Jewish families resettled in Thessaloniki, contributing to the city’s rich cultural fabric. However, this population was tragically decimated during the Nazi deportations in 1943. Thessaloniki now honors this history through a Jewish history museum, educational programs, and a revival of Jewish cuisine.
One memorable experience for the students was a meal prepared at Akademos Restaurant, where a chef used recipes collected from the Jewish community in Thessaloniki. This meal was not just a culinary experience but also a lesson in how migration and food are intertwined with a sense of belonging.
Examining Neighborhoods and Cultural Impact
The students’ research focused on three specific neighborhoods in Thessaloniki: City Center, Ano Poli (Old Town), and Kalamaria. These areas are home to descendants of Jews, as well as Anatolian migrants who fled their homes after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and the end of the Greco-Turkish War in the early 20th century.
As part of their study, the students interviewed local residents to understand the lingering effects of migration on the community and its food culture. To assist with the language barrier, undergraduate journalism and media studies students from Aristotle University of Thessaloniki acted as translators.
Understanding Migration Through Food
“We wanted the students to understand the relationship between migration, food, and belonging,” explained Professor Fábos. This hands-on experience gave the students a new perspective on how food plays a critical role in maintaining cultural identity, especially for displaced communities.
As Greece continues to grapple with modern migration challenges, the legacy of past migrants remains deeply embedded in Thessaloniki’s cultural and culinary heritage. Through this unique study abroad program, Clark University students not only learned about migration but also witnessed how communities, shaped by the movement of people, use food to keep their traditions alive.
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