Chef John Shields, the owner of Gertrude’s in Baltimore, has spent his career honoring the flavors of Chesapeake Bay. From his early influences to his work in the community, Shields remains deeply committed to preserving and evolving the region’s culinary traditions. In an exclusive interview with The News-Letter, he discusses his journey, his vision for Chesapeake Bay cuisine, and how students can help support the local food economy.
The Beginning of Gertrude’s
John Shields’ path to opening Gertrude’s in Baltimore began with a return to his hometown after two decades of cooking in the San Francisco Bay Area.
“I wanted something high profile but not in the Inner Harbor,” Shields explained. “The location near Hopkins and the Sculpture Gardens really cinched the deal.” In 1996, after filming Chesapeake Bay Cooking with John Shields for PBS, he found a space at the Baltimore Museum of Art. After gutting and rebuilding the restaurant, Shields set out on a mission to champion the flavors of the Chesapeake Bay.
For over 26 years, Gertrude’s has become a beloved destination, recognized for its commitment to local ingredients and the celebration of regional flavors.
Gertrude: The Inspiration Behind the Name
The name Gertrude’s carries a special meaning for Shields, paying tribute to his grandmother.
“My grandmother lived down the street on 25th Street and Greenmount Avenue,” he shared. “She was a cook at Saint Anne’s Church, preparing lunches for businessmen to raise money for the church. I started helping her in the kitchen when I was just a kid. She was my mentor, teaching me the importance of feeding others.”
Shields fondly recalled how his father would take him to the museum for the annual Easter parade, a memory that connects his childhood to the very place where his restaurant now stands.
What Defines Chesapeake Bay Cuisine?
Chesapeake Bay cuisine is rooted in local ingredients like crab, oysters, and rockfish, but Shields emphasized how it has evolved over time.
“Historically, Chesapeake cuisine started with Western European traditions, influenced by waves of immigrants, such as Italians, Germans, and Irish,” he explained. “It’s like a painting made from a diverse palette.”
Today, Chesapeake cuisine continues to be dynamic and diverse, with cultural influences shaping its modern evolution. Shields’ own kitchen includes staff from El Salvador, adding a fresh layer of cultural richness to his dishes.
The Future of Chesapeake Bay Cooking
Chesapeake Bay cuisine has evolved significantly over the years, but it remains a celebration of the region’s diverse bounty. From the mountains of Appalachia to the Bay’s shores, the area offers an abundance of ingredients to work with.
“Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in North America,” Shields said. “We have so much to work with here, and that’s what makes it special. It’s about celebrating everything this watershed provides, interpreted in many different ways.”
Supporting the Chesapeake Bay Food Economy
Shields has long been committed to preserving the region’s food economy, and he encourages students to get involved in local initiatives.
“The best thing you can do is buy local,” he advised. For students at Johns Hopkins University, the 32nd Street Farmer’s Market in Waverly is a great place to start. Shields frequently visits the market, where he advocates for connecting with local farmers and learning more about the ingredients that shape the region’s culinary landscape.
In addition to shopping locally, Shields encourages students to get involved in community projects like the Baltimore City Master Gardeners or the Baltimore Orchard Project, which helps gather fruit from abandoned orchards and donate it to food banks.
Cooking for Health and Sustainability
For those looking to eat healthier and live more sustainably, Shields offered some practical tips. He recommends incorporating whole grains like oats, barley, and rice into meals, as they are not only good for the environment but also for your health.
“Steel-cut oats are a great example,” he said. “Add some flaxseed, honey, and oat milk, and you’ve got a simple, nutritious meal. You can do the same with rice, toss it with vegetables, and you’ve got a fresh, healthy dish.”
Shields also emphasizes the importance of community in cooking. “It’s okay to make more decadent meals from time to time,” he said. “The key is balance. And cooking with friends once a week is a great way to stay connected.”
Cooking as Hospitality and Community
For Shields, cooking is more than just preparing food; it’s about nurturing and building connections.
“Hospitality comes from the same root as hospital,” he explained. “It’s about taking care of people, whether it’s through food or just being there for them.”
Through his nonprofit, Our Common Table, Shields creates spaces for people to come together, share meals, and have meaningful conversations.
“When people sit around the table, something happens,” he said. “Connections are made, and that’s the magic of food. It brings us together.”
The Secret to Success
Shields believes the key to success is simple: “Just show up.”
“You don’t need all the answers,” he said. “Just get out there, be present, and everything will start to fall into place.”
For Shields, this approach has not only guided his career but also helped foster a thriving community in Baltimore, all rooted in the celebration of Chesapeake Bay cuisine.
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