Food Review: Asu at Labrador Villa Road | A Journey Through Progressive Asian Cuisine by Chef Ace Tan

Asu, a new restaurant specializing in “Progressive Asian Cuisine,” has opened this month within the scenic Labrador Nature Reserve. Led by Chef Ace Tan, the restaurant occupies the former location of Tamarind Hill Singapore. In addition to Asu, the space also features a bar concept and a modern Chinese restaurant named Shan.

Stunning Ambiance

The interior design of Asu is nothing short of breathtaking. With a wabi-sabi theme, the centerpiece is a grand arc Chef’s Dining Table that can seat up to 15 diners. The open-concept kitchen allows guests to enjoy the culinary action firsthand.

Additional highlights of the zen-like interior include a custom-made Chinese apothecary cabinet showcasing various ingredients and seasonal artwork reflecting the current autumn.

While the dining area leans toward a dim ambiance, each table is illuminated with spotlights, ensuring an inviting atmosphere. Besides the chef’s table, there are two smaller tables suitable for intimate dining groups.

Culinary Inspirations

Chef Ace Tan’s “Progressive Asian Cuisine” draws from his childhood memories and global culinary techniques. A unique aspect of his dishes incorporates ancient Chinese health principles, using ingredients known for their health benefits.

Asu’s debut menu, titled “Origins,” showcases nostalgic recipes that reflect Chef Ace’s upbringing, blending classic flavors with modern interpretations.

Notable Dishes

• Lobster, Golden Chives, Pickled Bamboo Shoot, White Fungus

The meal begins with Chef Ace’s take on ‘shui jing bao,’ filled with luxurious lobster, golden chives, and hydrating white fungus.

• Yin Yang

This dish features a striking black-and-white presentation, with baby radish pickled in Taiwanese peppercorn rice vinegar and burdock pickled in aged shoyu vinegar. The burdock offers a richer flavor, making it a standout.

• Secret Snack

A surprise starter, this delicate spring roll is wrapped in vinegar-dried kombu and filled with Southeast Asian herbs and fish tartare marinated in fish sauce caramel.

• Oyster, House Oyster Sauce, Marinated Pork Jowl, Garlic Shoots

Inspired by Chef Ace’s favorite snack from Maxwell Market, this dish features a soft oyster and pork jowl filling topped with a crispy tuille. It offers a delicious bite without a strong briny taste.

• Shunde Yu Sheng

This refreshing dish features aged kanpachi slices on chilled noodles with fresh celtuce and iceberg lettuce, drizzled with a galangal dressing.

• Jessica’s Duck Soup

Inspired by Chef Ace’s mother, this cold soup contains Amela tomatoes stuffed with duck and chicken, served with a flavorful broth of poultry bones, ginseng, and house-preserved mustard greens.

• Red Legged Prawn, Five-Spiced Pork Belly, Lacto Pineapple Chilli Sauce, House Yuba

This dish features a crispy yuba exterior with a filling of red legged prawn and five-spice pork belly, complemented by a sweet and tangy lacto-fermented pineapple sauce.

• Managatsuo, Pickled Clams, 10-Year Shao Xing, Trio of Ginger

The dish pays homage to Teochew cuisine with a mix of kanpachi trimmings and classic Teochew flavors, presenting ginger in three different forms.

• Lu Shui An Chun

This quail dish, inspired by Chinese braised duck, features tender meat complemented by yam rice, smoked quail egg, and local seasonal pickles.

• F1 Wagyu Striploin, Buah Keluak, Lotus Root, Seasonal Vegetables

The beef dish, influenced by Indonesian Rawon, features tender F1 Wagyu served with a rich buah keluak sauce.

Sweet Endings

• Hitam Koji

This dessert, inspired by the popular Southeast Asian dessert pulut hitam, features various textures, including crispy meringue and sorbet.

• Caramel Coffee Kombucha Sherbet

This dessert combines coffee-infused kombucha sherbet with diced kiwi, coffee crumble, and topped with a foam of Thai milk tea and chicken floss for a savory touch.

To conclude the meal, diners are presented with petit fours in the form of a traditional Chinese steamed cake known as ‘Ma Lai Go.’

Final Thoughts

While Asu’s location may be somewhat obscure, the dining experience is well worth the journey. However, the tasting menu might not be sufficient for all diners without additional dishes, suggesting the potential for a complimentary bread course.

Asu is a destination restaurant in Singapore, offering a unique dining experience with nuanced flavors that reflect strong Asian themes and a focus on health benefits. The gorgeous dining space adds to its appeal.

Ratings

• Taste: 4/5
• Value: 4/5
• Ambiance: 4.5/5
• Overall Experience: 4/5

Opening Hours

Asu operates from Wednesday to Sunday for dinner only. The first seating begins at 6 PM, with a second seating at 8:30 PM. The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.