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The Fifty Six: Sophisticated Cantonese Dining Coming to Naldham House

by Ella

In February, The Fifty Six, a highly anticipated Chinese restaurant, will open on the top floor of Naldham House in Brisbane. Chef Gerald Ong, renowned for his work at Chairman & Yip in Canberra and Sydney’s Porteño and Automata, is excited to bring his vision of modern Cantonese cuisine to the city.

Speaking from the dining room of his new restaurant, Ong explains his concept, saying, “My main inspiration comes from making the food fit the space. Sitting here, I feel like I’m in Singapore or Hong Kong—there are big arching windows with tree lines, but also tall skyscrapers. I want the food to reflect the mix of modern, traditional, and eclectic elements in the dining room.”

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The name “The Fifty Six” honors the 56 Chinese labourers who arrived in Brisbane from China in 1848, marking the beginning of Chinese migration to Queensland. Ong’s aim is to celebrate this history while contributing to Brisbane’s rich Chinese food culture, which already boasts a number of excellent Cantonese and Hong Kong-style restaurants.

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A Focus on Cantonese Cuisine

The Fifty Six is part of a broader trend in Brisbane towards regionally specific Chinese cuisine, following the success of restaurants like Stan’s and Central. Ong explains that Australia’s shift towards focusing on specific Chinese regions, rather than serving a broad array of dishes from different areas, marks a renaissance in the appreciation of authentic Chinese food.

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“In the past, Chinese menus would include dishes from all over China. But what people don’t realize is that China is huge, like Europe. It’s like having French and Spanish food in the same meal,” Ong says.

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Focusing on Cantonese cuisine is a natural fit for Brisbane, which shares a similar climate to Hong Kong, making seafood and other ingredients ideal for the local palate. Ong highlights that Cantonese food, like French cuisine, is defined by high-quality ingredients, balanced flavors, and elegance.

Sourcing the Best Ingredients

Ong is meticulous in sourcing the finest ingredients for his dishes. “I’m approaching the menu from the larder upwards,” he says, emphasizing his commitment to selecting the best sauces and ingredients. For example, during his travels in Singapore, he discovered Kwong Cheong Thye, a premium soy sauce brand that he’s working to bring to Australia. “It’s almost like using the right olive oil in a Western restaurant,” Ong explains.

For oyster sauce, Ong is taking a hands-on approach by cooking oysters for three days, adding aromatics and dry oysters, then blending and caramelizing the mixture into a rich sauce. One standout dish will feature steak in a pepper-oyster-champagne sauce, a nod to the classic carpetbag steak.

Creative Dishes and Techniques

Taking inspiration from his time at Porteño, Ong plans to cook vegetables over coals to create bold, smoky flavors. For example, numbing eggplant will be one of the standout dishes. Additionally, Ong has instituted a dry-aging program for meat, ensuring exceptional flavor and texture.

The dumpling offerings will be led by Sous-Chef Ka Wai Kwok, a dim sum expert with 20 years of experience. Dishes like prawn and mango spring rolls and crystal skin Moreton Bay bug dumplings will showcase his expertise in creating delicate, flavorful dim sum.

A Wine List with a Twist

In addition to a curated wine list that emphasizes whites, Ong will feature some interesting wines from China, adding a unique touch to the dining experience at The Fifty Six.

Opening in February

The Fifty Six will officially open in February 2023 at the top floor of Naldham House, located at 33 Felix Street, Brisbane. With a menu that reflects Chef Gerald Ong’s deep commitment to authenticity, quality, and creativity, The Fifty Six is set to become a standout destination for lovers of sophisticated Cantonese cuisine in Brisbane.

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