Nicole Ponseca, a former advertising executive turned restaurateur, is reshaping how Filipino cuisine is viewed in the United States. Her restaurants, Maharlika and Jeepney, both pivotal in revolutionizing Filipino food in New York City, left an enduring legacy. Although these restaurants closed in 2019 and 2021, Ponseca’s influence continues to thrive through her Jeepney stall in Miami’s 1-800-Lucky food hall and her celebrated cookbook.
A Journey of Passion and Persistence
Ponseca’s rise to fame in the culinary world is unconventional. Without formal culinary training, she credits her skills to lessons from her father and years of experience in the restaurant industry. “I learned a lot in the kitchen from my dad, but I also spent 20 years in the restaurant world—from dishwasher to bartender, and eventually to owner,” she says. These experiences, combined with her business acumen, have shaped her approach to Filipino cuisine.
Her philosophy is simple: “The dish must taste good.” Ponseca balances honoring Filipino traditions with appealing to a broad audience. By understanding the vast diversity within Filipino food, she brings creativity and innovation to the table. “I’m a curator of interpretation,” she explains, ensuring each dish connects with guests while staying true to its roots.
Filipino Food Gains Recognition
Filipino cuisine is gaining traction in the U.S., with a 50% increase in interest, according to the Taste Wise Trend Report. Yet Ponseca believes the journey is far from complete. “Filipino food is on the rise, but we still have a long way to go,” she states. Though dishes like sisig and lumpia are becoming more familiar, Ponseca stresses that deeper cultural appreciation requires greater effort from chefs, restaurateurs, and the media. Despite Filipinos being the second-fastest growing Asian group in the U.S., Filipino restaurants make up less than one percent of the food industry.
Ponseca recalls how, during her childhood, Filipino food was often misunderstood and ridiculed. “Growing up, dishes like balut were sources of mockery,” she shares. This experience sparked her desire to change perceptions. One of her major goals was to elevate Filipino cultural practices, such as kamayan, the tradition of eating with hands. Jeepney became the first U.S. restaurant to celebrate this practice, transforming it into an experience that guests could appreciate.
Overcoming Challenges as an Asian American Chef
Ponseca acknowledges the challenges faced by many Asian American chefs, particularly biases and socioeconomic barriers. Access to capital remains one of the most significant obstacles to scaling a restaurant. “It’s not about an inherent stigma, but about the difficulties in securing financial support,” she says. However, she notes that this landscape is changing, and there is now more opportunity for Asian American chefs to thrive.
The diversity within Filipino cuisine also presents a unique challenge. Ponseca notes that Filipino food is highly regional, and some dishes may not align with everyone’s taste preferences. “Even within our own community, there can be critique,” she admits. Nevertheless, she sees this diversity as a strength, aiming to ensure that all Filipino dishes have a voice.
Ponseca also highlights the role of food as a universal language. “Food is the most democratic form of cultural currency,” she states. Unlike other forms of cultural capital—such as music or fashion—food allows everyone to participate in the conversation. This universal appeal, she believes, can foster cultural diplomacy, providing an opportunity for people to better understand Filipino culture.
The Future of Filipino Cuisine in America
Ponseca is optimistic about the future of Filipino cuisine. She envisions it becoming a mainstream part of American dining, alongside Thai, Japanese, and Korean food. “Chefs and entrepreneurs will drive this growth,” she predicts. “What we need are business-minded innovators who can scale Filipino food ventures and meet growing demand.”
One of the challenges to this growth is sourcing authentic Filipino ingredients. While large Filipino communities exist in cities like Los Angeles and New York, Filipino food is harder to find in other parts of the U.S., such as Miami. “In places with bigger Filipino populations, the food is more accessible,” she notes. Ponseca works closely with suppliers to build relationships and increase demand for Filipino ingredients.
She also stresses the importance of sustainability and ethical sourcing in Filipino cuisine, an issue that is still developing within the industry.
A Personal Story Behind the Cookbook
Ponseca’s cookbook, I Am a Filipino, has received critical acclaim and was a finalist for the Best International Cookbook by the James Beard Foundation in 2019. Through this work, she shares deeply personal stories about her father, who used food as a bridge between their lives in the Philippines and the U.S. “My father used dishes to connect me to him and to our culture,” Ponseca reflects. She recalls how her father, despite speaking broken English, would share stories about Filipino food that deepened her connection to her heritage.
A defining moment for Ponseca occurred during her childhood when she learned the importance of sharing food in Filipino culture. “I realized that before serving myself, I needed to make sure everyone had been served first,” she remembers. This lesson in generosity and community continues to influence her approach to food and writing.
In working on her cookbook, Ponseca gained a profound understanding of her cultural identity. “To be Filipino is to be truly multicultural,” she says. This realization deepened her appreciation for Filipino cuisine and its place in the broader culinary world.
Embracing Leadership and Cultural Identity
The transition from corporate life to the kitchen has transformed Ponseca’s understanding of leadership, especially as a woman of color. “When you’re the only person of color in a room, you can’t help but feel different,” she reflects. “Your food, your culture, your relationship with America—it all feels different.” As a young woman, Ponseca wanted to blend in, but her career in the restaurant industry allowed her to embrace her authentic self.
Ponseca’s journey is not just about cooking; it’s about changing perceptions and elevating Filipino cuisine to a global stage. Through her work, she’s redefining what it means to be Filipino and challenging others to explore and appreciate this rich, diverse cuisine.
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