Nornie Bero, the chef behind Mabu Mabu, has become one of Australia’s leading advocates for Indigenous cuisine. Through her work, she has showcased the rich flavors of Torres Strait Islander food, helping to bring native ingredients into the mainstream. Now, with the premiere of her new TV show, Island Echoes with Nornie Bero, she returns to her roots on Mer Island to explore her cultural heritage and the connection between food and identity.
A Journey from South Melbourne Market to SBS
Bero’s journey into the culinary world began modestly. She started by offering Torres Strait Islander cuisine and native ingredients at a stall at the South Melbourne Market, where she introduced a range of vibrant condiments. This led to the opening of her Yarraville café, Mabu Mabu, meaning “help yourself.” In 2021, she expanded her brand with the launch of Mabu Mabu Big Esso at Fed Square, a unique restaurant and bar. Last year, Bero also released her first cookbook, further solidifying her place in Australian cuisine.
Bero’s rise in the culinary world has been gradual but steady. Today, she is a household name, and with the debut of Island Echoes, she is poised to reach an even larger audience. The series, which premiered earlier this month on SBS, takes viewers on a journey back to the Torres Strait Islands, showcasing the landscapes and cultures that have shaped Bero’s love for food.
Returning to Mer Island: A Personal and Cultural Connection
Filming Island Echoes was a deeply personal experience for Bero. “It was an amazing experience,” she shares, describing the opportunity to film on eight different islands in the Torres Strait. “There are these beautiful tropical parts of Australia that still exist, and cultures that have been around forever. We’re still maintaining the food and cultural aspects of our lives on those islands.”
Bero’s strong ties to the Torres Strait are evident in her return to Mer Island, where she grew up. She was greeted with warmth and enthusiasm from her family and friends, and she sees herself as a role model for the next generation. “I grew up walking on those same beaches and going to those same schools,” Bero reflects. “So if I can do it, they can do it. I’m one of them, but not only that – they’re one of me.”
Exploring Traditional Dishes and Modern Interpretations
Each episode of Island Echoes delves into the traditional dishes and cooking methods of the Torres Strait Islands. Bero not only highlights the cultural significance of these dishes but also demonstrates how they can be recreated in home kitchens. While the average cook may not have access to ingredients like dugong or turtle, Bero focuses on the techniques and values behind the cooking process.
“Being a chef, that’s such raw and exciting cooking,” says Bero. She emphasizes the joy of foraging and fishing, where food comes directly from the land and sea. “You can’t get any better than when you’re standing there and the food comes straight out of the ocean,” she adds. “It’s just the best experience ever.”
The food culture of the Torres Strait extends to the children of the islands, who are taught to respect nature’s bounty. “They’re part of the process of getting food,” Bero explains. “They eat everything and try everything. They understand the circle of life.”
Bringing Native Ingredients to Everyday Kitchens
Bero’s mission goes beyond showcasing Torres Strait cuisine. She is determined to make native ingredients more accessible to Australians. In her first cookbook, she offers practical advice on sourcing native produce, even for those who may not have access to it locally. Her second cookbook, currently in the works, will focus on quick and easy dishes that incorporate native ingredients as replacements for common pantry staples.
“My mission is to get native ingredients into everyday pantries,” Bero says. “These ingredients actually come out of our land, and they’re a part of who we are. We should be proud to have our own spices and ingredients that are unique to us.”
At Mabu Mabu Big Esso, Bero’s commitment to native-first cooking is evident in both the food and beverages. The restaurant offers a menu made with Australian ingredients, including kangaroo, emu, wild boar, oysters, and a variety of fruits and vegetables. Even the soft drinks and cocktails are crafted from entirely Australian ingredients, including locally made spirits. Additionally, Mabu Mabu offers take-home products such as jams, hot sauces, and spices like salt bush and pepperberry.
Celebrating Australian Seasons and Flavors
Bero’s dedication to Australian produce extends to the restaurant’s seasonal menu. “When you think about the seasons that we talk about here, they were introduced to Australia,” she says. “You should be eating in that specific season and enjoying it.” The menu at Mabu Mabu is adjusted monthly to reflect the short seasons of much of Australia’s produce, ensuring that the ingredients used are fresh and in-season.
Looking Ahead: More to Come from Mabu Mabu
While Bero is focused on her upcoming second cookbook and the continued success of Mabu Mabu, she is also excited about what lies ahead for her brand. “We want to make native ingredients more accessible to people,” she says. “I think there’s a lot more to be done.”
As Bero’s influence grows, her efforts to celebrate and preserve the culinary traditions of the Torres Strait Islands will continue to inspire both chefs and home cooks across Australia. She is just getting started, and there’s no telling how far her impact will reach.
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