Chef Joan Vallès, known for his work with Oriol Ivern at Hisop, is carving his own path in Barcelona’s culinary scene with his newly opened restaurant, Gegant. Situated in the Poblenou neighborhood, Vallès combines traditional Catalan dishes with a modern approach, offering diners a unique taste of local flavors in a casual yet refined setting.
From the Idea to Reality: The Birth of Gegant
Vallès shares that Gegant is his first solo venture, a dream made possible with the support of local coffee entrepreneur Jordi Mestre, of Nomad Coffee fame. When Jordi renovated his café, he kept the adjacent space, and Vallès saw the opportunity to open a restaurant there. The collaboration has proven successful, with the restaurant already attracting a loyal following after just one month of operation.
A Team Effort
Vallès isn’t alone in this endeavor. He works alongside Ivan Fernández, the restaurant’s maître d’, who brings a wealth of experience in natural wines from his previous wine bar. Vallès emphasized the importance of having a trusted team, saying, “I knew I wouldn’t feel alone with Ivan by my side.”
A Journey in Catalan Cuisine
Vallès’ journey in the culinary world began under the mentorship of Oriol Ivern at Hisop. “Spending time with Oriol was invaluable,” Vallès notes. He learned the importance of balance—creating dishes that make sense both in terms of flavor and the health of the chef. With a focus on tradition, Vallès has always been dedicated to preserving Catalan cuisine, which he believes has much more to offer than the trendy innovations seen in some of Barcelona’s new eateries.
Revitalizing Traditional Catalan Dishes
At Gegant, Vallès focuses on using fresh, local ingredients to create traditional Catalan dishes like stewed lentils with pig’s ears, chickpeas with cod, and rabbit with snails. These dishes reflect his belief in the importance of both quality and authenticity in Catalan cooking. “We produce everything ourselves,” Vallès explains, contrasting his approach with other establishments that purchase ready-made dishes from local markets, such as Mercat del Ninot.
Navigating Challenges and Embracing Simplicity
One key lesson Vallès has learned over the years is the importance of keeping things simple. “It’s crucial to be comfortable with saying when a dish has run out,” he says, acknowledging that sometimes the most straightforward decisions are the best ones. His commitment to fresh ingredients and changing menus ensures that diners always experience something new.
Though Gegant operates on a set lunch menu, Vallès also offers a dinner menu that allows him to be more creative. However, he emphasizes that the focus remains on traditional Catalan products, always honoring the region’s culinary heritage.
A New Era for Catalan Cuisine in Barcelona
Vallès also weighs in on the growing trend of natural wines and restaurants that aim to serve “authentic” Catalan cuisine in Barcelona. He cautions, however, that many of these establishments buy pre-made dishes, creating an illusion of authenticity without the effort of preparation. This trend, he believes, is dangerous for the industry, as it oversaturates the market and risks the quality of the culinary experience.
Looking Ahead: The Vision for Gegant
The name Gegant, meaning “giant,” reflects Vallès’ reverence for Catalan folklore and tradition. “A giant is big, but it needs someone behind it to make it work,” he explains. His dream for the future is simple yet ambitious: to ensure Gegant thrives, paying off his debts in five years while continuing to serve Catalan cuisine in its truest form.
For Vallès, the journey is just beginning, but his passion for Catalan food and his commitment to quality are clear indicators that Gegant is poised to make a lasting impact on Barcelona’s gastronomic landscape.
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