Valentine’s Day is often celebrated as a time for romantic love, but love in its many forms—friendships, family bonds, and professional partnerships—deserves recognition as well. Few partnerships in the culinary world capture this idea better than that of chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. Together since the mid-1980s, they have built a culinary empire, most notably through their renowned restaurant Border Grill.
Pioneers of Mexican Cuisine
Milliken and Feniger are widely regarded as pioneers in introducing Mexican cuisine to the United States. Over the decades, their collaboration has extended beyond just restaurants—they’ve co-hosted television shows like the Food Network’s “Too Hot Tamales,” written cookbooks, and become vocal advocates for social justice and equality in the restaurant industry. Their partnership represents a unique blend of business acumen, mentorship, and empowerment, showing how two people can help elevate each other’s work.
Their connection goes beyond just business. In a surprising twist, Feniger was once married to Josh Schweitzer, who is now Milliken’s husband. However, it is their shared vision and enduring friendship that continues to be the heart of their successful partnership.
Culinary Beginnings
Feniger’s journey into the culinary world began in Toledo, Ohio, where she first embraced the challenges and camaraderie of restaurant work. She convinced her economics professor to allow her to complete her final year at the Culinary Institute of America, juggling six-hour classes with eight-hour shifts. Her path eventually led her to Kansas City, Chicago, and then Los Angeles, where she worked with Wolfgang Puck, before a stint in the south of France honed her culinary expertise.
Milliken’s love for cooking began when she was a teenager, realizing at 16 that it could become her profession. After graduating high school early, she attended culinary school in Chicago and later met Feniger. Milliken recalls, “It was the first time I worked with someone as passionate as I was—maybe even more so.”
Persistence and Passion for Mexican Cuisine
Their joint venture, Border Grill, opened in 1985, and from the start, the chefs envisioned it as a long-term project. Both had previously been exposed to the rich and diverse flavors of Mexican cuisine, which reshaped their culinary perspectives. Feniger reflects on how discovering ingredients like epazote, hoja santa, and various chiles was a revelation that deepened their commitment to the cuisine.
Persistence has been crucial to their success. “We are in it for the long haul,” says Milliken. “We want to create something that lasts.”
The Secret to Their Enduring Partnership
When asked about the key to their successful collaboration, Feniger responds with humor, saying, “Therapy!” She credits years of personal therapy for helping them navigate change and strengthening their trust in each other. Milliken agrees, noting the importance of mutual respect and complementary skills. “We’ve learned to adapt, and we work hard to make it work,” she says.
Recognition and Achievements
One of the most meaningful moments in their careers came when they won the prestigious Julia Child Award. Both chefs express how overwhelming it was to be part of the Smithsonian’s permanent collection, with their history displayed alongside icons like Julia Child’s kitchen. For Feniger, being part of such an esteemed collection was a dream come true. Milliken adds, “It’s the biggest thrill ever. Julia was an incredible inspiration and mentor.”
Alice B.: A New Venture with a Purpose
Their latest venture, Alice B., holds significant meaning. Named after Alice B. Toklas, the partner of Gertrude Stein, the restaurant is located within Living Out, a luxury apartment complex designed for LGBTQIA+ adults. The partnership felt like a natural fit for the chefs, both of whom are strong advocates for the LGBTQIA+ community. Feniger explains, “A restaurant owned by two women, two activists—one of whom is a lesbian—felt like the perfect match.”
Alice B. features Mediterranean cuisine and is led by chef Lance Velasquez, who shares their values of using high-quality ingredients and mentoring his team. Milliken emphasizes, “We couldn’t resist the opportunity to cook at this groundbreaking complex.”
Why They Cook
When asked why they cook, Milliken succinctly says, “To make people happy, including myself.” Feniger elaborates, “Cooking feels like home. It’s my life, my way of sharing experiences with others. I love the joy of giving people something special and the way food brings people together.”
Milliken and Feniger’s story is more than just one of business success—it is a testament to the enduring power of partnership, mentorship, and the love that fuels their culinary empire.
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