The Pinwheel Brings Cowboy Cuisine to Essex

by Ella

After closing their Burlington restaurant in 2021, Wendy Piotrowski and Andrew Machanic are back with a new version of their beloved establishment, the Pinwheel, in Essex. Known for their Western-inspired menu and family-friendly atmosphere, the couple is excited to share their unique flavors once again.

The original Pinwheel, which operated from 2014 to 2021, gained a loyal following in downtown Burlington, offering large hash browns, pressed-waffle sandwiches, and cowboy coffee. For regulars, the memory of the couple’s infant son in a playpen behind the counter remains a fond image. Today, the same child, Waylon Machanic, is now 11 years old and frequently helps his parents in their new restaurant location in Essex.

Waylon assists his parents on weekends, helping with tasks such as mopping floors, cleaning tables, and rolling silverware into napkins. While the young boy humorously admits that his weekly allowance is tied to his contributions, he also takes pride in being a part of the business.

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The Return to Restaurant Ownership

The decision to reopen the Pinwheel in Essex was influenced by both family and the couple’s love for entrepreneurship. Wendy, 42, and Andrew, 56, had taken a break from the intense restaurant hours, focusing on running a donut bus called Sweet Wheels near their Essex Junction home. Andrew, a seasoned chef with experience in various kitchens, also worked in other culinary settings during this time.

However, the couple always knew they would eventually return to owning a restaurant. “We both are drawn to being entrepreneurs,” Wendy said, and their menu, inspired by Western flavors, continued to be a driving force behind their decision to reopen. “It was just sort of asleep, hibernating,” Andrew added.

A New Home in Essex

In February, the couple opened the Pinwheel in Essex at the location previously occupied by Cody’s Irish Pub & Grille, which had closed a year earlier. The new spot offers more seating than the original Burlington location and a simplified name—just “Pinwheel”—as customers often referred to it as such.

The couple is proud of the “Western swing” vibe that defines both their restaurant and its décor. Their dining room is filled with Western memorabilia, including antlers, cacti, and stirrups. The unique décor is a tribute to the American West, which continues to inspire their cooking and restaurant style.

While the cowboy coffee from the original restaurant didn’t make the move to Essex, many familiar items remain on the menu, along with some new additions for lunch.

Western-Inspired Comfort Food

The Pinwheel’s menu is a reflection of Andrew’s years spent working on guest ranches and resorts across the American West, including in Wyoming, Colorado, and Alaska. The menu items are deeply influenced by his experiences, offering customers a taste of Western-inspired dishes and local ingredients.

For breakfast, diners can enjoy a variety of options such as the fluffy popovers stuffed with eggs ($14) or the rich biscuits with eggs and bacon gravy ($15). A standout is the eggs Cassidy ($17.50), which includes Mexican-style braised beef, poached eggs, corn cakes, and a zesty house hollandaise.

Lunch items include the Wafflini ($9 for half/$16 for whole), a waffle-panini hybrid, and substantial salads like the spinach apple-pecan salad with goat cheese ($14). For sandwich lovers, the Pinwheel offers burgers ($16), a grilled chicken sandwich ($16), and other hearty options, with all bread baked in-house except for gluten-free bread sourced from a nearby bakery.

In addition to the popular comfort food, the menu reflects Andrew’s personal culinary journey. His Basque Breakfast ($14), for instance, features a spicy tomato stew and Manchego cheese, paying homage to the Basque shepherds of Wyoming. Similarly, his housemade cheesy spaetzle ($17) draws on the influence of the German culture he encountered while living out West.

A Family Affair

The Pinwheel’s focus on family is clear not just in Waylon’s involvement but also in the recipes passed down through generations. Andrew’s mother’s apple dumpling recipe is a standout item on the menu, featuring a rich, buttery dough wrapped around chunks of apple. The dumplings are baked in butter and sugar, then flipped to reveal their caramelized underside, a family tradition that holds special meaning for Andrew.

Waylon’s influence can also be seen on the menu. One dish, the Waffle for Waylon ($12.50), is named after him and features a waffle topped with apple compote and cream. The waffle itself is made from a special dough passed down from Andrew’s mother, which was traditionally shaped into pinwheels for holidays and special occasions. This dough has since evolved into the restaurant’s signature waffle sandwiches, the Wafflini, with fillings like prosciutto, Gouda, honey, and turkey with cranberry-apple chutney.

Customer Favorites and New Additions

Since opening, the Pinwheel has quickly gained new regulars. One such patron, Matt Milewski from Jericho, has visited with his daughter and shared that they’ve already settled on a “usual” order: Haystack Hashbrowns topped with cheese and an egg ($9, plus $2 for the egg) and a buttermilk pancake ($5) for his daughter. The friendly atmosphere and thoughtful service, including a server remembering to bring extra orange slices for his daughter, have left a lasting impression.

Other standout menu items include the Haystack Hashbrown, which is a favorite from the original Burlington Pinwheel location. Topped with crispy bacon and a poached egg, the dish is a comforting and satisfying choice for breakfast.

The restaurant’s baked goods have also received praise, such as the almond-cranberry scones ($4) and the apple dumplings, which were described as “delicious” and “luxurious” by patrons. For those seeking more savory options, the TBLT sandwich ($18) made with baked trout, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and lemon-sage mayo has become a popular choice.

A Restaurant with a Unique Flavor

The Pinwheel in Essex is a blend of Western-inspired comfort food and family tradition, reflecting both Andrew and Wendy’s passion for culinary creativity and entrepreneurship. The new location, with its expanded seating and updated menu, continues the legacy of the original Burlington restaurant, offering a unique dining experience that transports guests to the American West.

As the Pinwheel settles into its new home in Essex, it’s clear that this family-run restaurant is ready to continue sharing their flavors, traditions, and Western-inspired dishes with the community for years to come.

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