Indigenous entrepreneurs in the eastern Indian state of Jharkhand are making traditional tribal foods popular in urban areas. These entrepreneurs are opening restaurants in cities that offer unique dishes rooted in local tribal cultures.
Ajam Emba: Reviving Tribal Flavors in Ranchi
One such restaurant is Ajam Emba, located in Ranchi, the capital of Jharkhand. The name “Ajam Emba” means “delicious taste” in Kurukh, the language of the Indigenous Oraon community. The restaurant is owned by Aruna Tirkey, an Oraon tribal member, and serves dishes made from local leafy vegetables and flowers. Some of the key ingredients include kudrum flowers (roselle), beng (Centella asiatica), jirhul (Indigofera cassioides), mahua (Madhuca longifolia), and red rice.
Gaurav Marandi, a regular customer at Ajam Emba, shared his thoughts with Mongabay India: “The food we crave isn’t available anywhere else.” His mother, Rut Kachhap, added, “It reminds us of home.”
Mandi Eddpa: A Fusion of Tribal and Korean Cuisines
Another restaurant, Mandi Eddpa, is also based in Ranchi. This unique eatery blends Indigenous tribal foods with Korean cuisine. Kapil Vinod Toppo, who runs Mandi Eddpa, mentioned, “Young people come for Korean food, but those above 40 are more interested in local food.”
Toppo, who spent time working in South Korea, noted how strongly connected the people there were to their culinary traditions. “Ramen bowls are popular in Korea, and I realized they are quite similar to maad-bhaat from my region,” he said, highlighting the similarity between traditional Korean food and Jharkhand’s local dishes.
The Open Field: Documenting and Sharing Tribal Foods
A third restaurant, The Open Field, is managed by Manisha Oraon. This establishment serves several Indigenous dishes, including jirhul phool chokha (mashed potatoes mixed with jirhul flowers), a fermented rice drink, and mahua kheer (a sweet dish made from mahua flowers). Oraon’s team is also working to document the tribal cuisines of Jharkhand and the methods used to prepare them.
Both Oraon and Tirkey emphasize the importance of sourcing ingredients directly from local farmers and markets. “The goal is not just to promote local food but also to establish a value chain,” said Oraon. Tirkey, who frequently visits remote villages, explained, “Today, we offer 50 seasonal items, including 20 types of green leafy vegetables and 10 varieties of flowers, including mahua.”
The Revival of Indigenous Cuisine in Jharkhand
Soumik Banerjee, an independent researcher who has studied tribal food and health in Jharkhand for 19 years, believes these restaurants are playing a crucial role in bringing Indigenous cuisine back into the spotlight. “People in cities were unaware of these foods, and even rural communities were beginning to forget these healthy and environmentally friendly options,” Banerjee said. “These restaurants are helping bring them back.”
Tirkey also pointed out that these restaurants are helping to shift perceptions about traditional foods. “Earlier, the misconception was that the food habits in my culture were related to a crisis or poverty,” she said. “But now, it is changing, and many families are taking pride in their traditional diets and cooking them at home, too.”
Jharkhand is home to 32 recognized tribes, each with their unique culinary traditions.
This article is a summary of “Tribal Entrepreneurs Bring Indigenous Cuisine to the Urban Mainstream” by Kundan Pandey for Mongabay India.
Related topics: