Bodean’s is a London old-timer, having originally opened in 2002, making it over 20 years old. Since their original opening in Soho, they have expanded to Covent Garden and Tower Hill, which is unusual in the London dining scene for them to have lasted this long.
But they are not resting on their laurels, as the restaurant is currently going through a mini-transformation. They have hired Richard Turner as their new chef director to drive the restaurant’s transformation.
So who is Richard Turner?
Turner himself is a legend in the London dining scene. He was at Hawksmoor when it first opened, and is now part of the excellent butcher shop Turner & George in Islington. He was also involved in the opening of Pitt Cue in London about a decade ago, which sparked a grill/smoking revolution in the London dining scene. In that time, grill restaurants have emerged one after another, but Bodean’s has remained a constant. Now, Turner has brought his extensive grilling experience to reinvent the menu at Bodean’s.
Where is it?
We tried the Soho branch at the end of Poland Street (about five minutes from Oxford Circus). The lights have been turned up there too. The new menu is also available at the Tower Hill and Covent Garden branches.
So what’s on the new menu?
The menu has been streamlined, focusing mainly on classic grilled and smoked meats, with a few American-influenced snacks thrown in.
Starting with the snacks and starters, the latest signature dish is the prawn cocktail. We highly recommend making it your first choice on the menu so you have time to make plans for the main course.
Next up is the main event, with most of the changes coming from Turner’s contributions. Options here include smoked Jacob’s ladder steak, smoked barbecue chicken, pork ribs, pulled pork and even rump steak.
You’ll definitely want to go straight for the sharing platter, though. There are two absolute humongous portions here, which are pretty good value considering the amount of food you’re piling in front of you. There’s a 1kg smoked prime rib platter (£95 for 2-3), but we recommend going for the main BBQ platter.
This giant platter comes with smoked pork ribs, Carolina pulled pork, smoked beef ribs, Texas sausage, smoked brisket, coleslaw, pickles and Texas toast. We ordered the £60 version, advertised as servings for 2-3, and it was more than enough for three (there’s also a larger £85 version).
We’re usually BBQ fans and this was a great platter, with Turner’s involvement shining through in the meat and the ‘bone sucking sauce’ he created for the restaurant (which we 100% would buy if it was available).
Did we need anything?
You can add on most BBQ meats (e.g. extra brisket, sausages etc) but this isn’t really the case. Just pick a few sides. We highly recommend the following.
How’s this for vegetarians?
To be honest, this restaurant is not for vegetarians at all – if you are a vegetarian and find yourself here, you are definitely in the wrong place. If you are with a group of meat eaters, there are a few options (such as veggie burgers and the aforementioned salads), but it is really not a place for vegetarians to get a proper meal.
After all this, is there room for dessert?
You definitely need a break. Dessert is limited to sundaes (you can find them on the back of the drinks list), which are easy to share if you want to order dessert to end the meal.
So what about drinks?
Bourbon is a highlight, and the drinks list not only has a dedicated bourbon section, but also a set of bourbon cocktails (see below). In addition, wine starts at a reasonable price, such as South African wines from Prime Cuts at £24, and of course, there are some good American wines on the wine list. Beer includes draughts such as Pabst Blue Ribbon and Beavertown, as well as American and British bottles.
There is also a nice low/no alcohol section with Guinness, ales and ciders as well as some cocktails and even a 0.5% bourbon.
Conclusion
We haven’t been to Bodean’s for a long time, about ten years. This visit reminded us why it is such an iconic place in Soho and why we always love to go there. It has always been a good grill restaurant in London and the menu designed by Richard Turner is the icing on the cake. Here you can find delicious grill with great sauces, the prices are quite reasonable and the portions are generous. Whether you are a returning customer or a first time visitor, it is worth a try.
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