Cathy Thomas Cooks Kona Kampachi Crudo With La Vaquera Chef Aaron Zimmer

by Ella

Aaron Zimmer, executive chef of La Vaquera at River Street Market in San Juan Capistrano, traveled extensively after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America. He worked in several prestigious restaurants, under world-renowned chefs such as Roland Passot, Laurent Gras and Eric Ziebold, before finally owning his own restaurant as executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay.

He worked at other prestigious restaurants before taking on the creative challenge of La Vaquera. His kampachi crudo reflects his attention to rigorous technique and ingredients; in my kitchen, he reveals the secrets of ingredients and cooking step by step.

The Kona kampachi he uses usually comes from a farm in the deep waters of Baja California. The fish is highly nutritious, and the cold water gives it an alluring fat. Sometimes he buys from farms in the Kona waters of the Hawaiian Islands, but the chef prefers the Baja California fish because it is closer to home. The two fish farms are owned by the same person. He slices the blooded fish into perfect 1/4-inch-thick slices, slicing them horizontally on the diagonal.

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Avocados are delicious in two ways, first as a source of choice oil and second as a fire-roasted topping. Chunks of avocado are roasted black, giving them extra flavor. Pickled Fresno peppers are also involved, as are peeled Cara Cara and blood oranges. The citrus brings an alluring tartness to the dish. Some flaky Malton salt adds a subtle crunch while saltiness. Irresistible.

He brings his impressive experience to La Vaquera, with its crackling wood fires, dishes influenced by local ingredients, and the history of California ranchers.

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